We get a gazillion questions from new recruits for all four time periods, mostly “What should I get?” and “Where should I get it?”

What should I get?—Hopefully you will pour through the clothing and gear articles in the unit impression you intend to do. In all four cases the single difficult block to answering this question is that none of the units were formal military units with uniforms, weapons and gear provided by a government. The men for the most part used their personal gear, certainly all wore their own civilian clothes (in some cases, like the company stores on the Piscataqua or even town and provincial government in the French wars, weapons were loaned out from company/government stores, although there was no uniformity even there). Therefore, the answer to this question is subjective and to a certain extent personal. You should study the Clothing and Gear articles and study what the articles describe. If you are unclear as to what something is, just ask.

Where should I get it?—This list is intended to answer that question, with three additional question that only you can answer: How much can I afford? A secondary question that only you can answer is: How many impressions do I intend to do (Piscataqua, Church, Harmon, Eames), and what is my timetable? A third question would be: Can I make things myself or do I have someone who can make things?

Where should I get it?—all our recommended sutlers and manufacturers are listed below, but the list is not exhaustive. There are people and companies propping up or that we simply have not heard of to date. If you find one, let us know. In addition, at trade fairs and larger events you will find sutlers selling many items, especially for the 18th century units (Harmon’s and Eames’s Rangers), not so much 17th century stuff. The thing is, you can actually see the items and save yourself the postage.

How much can I afford?—we try to provide a range of gear, from custom made weapons to off the rack items. This is between you (how much exact accuracy is an issue for you) and your bank account. We try to give options in this respect.

How many impressions do I intend to do?—As you have read a couple times by now, some weapons and gear translate from one time period to another. Again, depending on your personal budget and inclinations, the choice of weapons and shoes (two of the more expensive items generally speaking) will be tied to which impressions you intend to do at some point. If your intension is to do one impression, then the choice is simple. If you intend to some day do all four, then it certainly gets more complicated. In the various Clothing and Gear articles we have tried to steer you to items that would work for various impressions, and in this list we continue to do so.

One final point, some of the sources, particularly for The Piscataqua Company, are in England or Europe. Please be aware that postage will add to your item, much more than items coming from American sources. A pair of shoes bought in America may have postage of $15-$18. Shoes coming from England could have postage of $30-$35. Many of the sources in England and Europe produce excellent products, especially as they are into 16th and 17th century, so we don’t want to dissuade you from them. Many of us have those items. Just keep the postage in mind.

Sources with an asterisk * are members of the unit.

Weapons

Firearms

A note before you dive in, many of the lower end firearms described here are made in India/Pakistan. They are perfectly safe, and several members have them. There is, however, a couple of points you should be aware of. First, the finish. The metal is highly polished almost to a mirror finish and the stocks often have this surface coating that makes them looked stained, or the stain that is used comes off. We have a great deal of expertise in the group on how to fix these up nicely, including using brown mustard on the metal parts to dull them. So, don’t be concerned about that.

Second, the guns ordered from Canada usually don’t have the flash hole drilled. This is a way around import laws, they can claim them as non-fireable to get through American customs. Again, there are many members with a drill press and the expertise to take of that if you do not.


Custom Firearms

Rifle Shoppehttp://www.therifleshoppe.com/online_catalog.htm

If you know someone who can put guns together or you have or would like to try, then consider Rifle Shoppe parts. Be patient, however. The Rifle Shoppe casts parts in small batches. They don’t have a huge warehouse filled with all their parts, so it depends on what you are ordering and when. Unless you are lucky, expect 10-12 months for your parts to arrive, and the 4-6 months to assemble. Also, generally a complete parts list, lock, stock and barrel, will cost around $1,000 (this includes an assembled lock, highly recommended), and you can add a few hundred if you are paying someone to put it together. However, in the end, you will have a top-quality firearm to be proud of.

Consider Rifle Shoppe guns for the following (the link above takes you to their online catalog)

Piscataqua Company

  • Early Matchlock Caliver (527)
  • Right Hand Early Matchlock (528)
  • Early Matchlock Caliver (779)
  • Dutch Matchlock (785)
  • Elizabethan Snaphaunce Carbine (525)
  • English Snaphaunce Musket (579)
  • English Lock Musket (607)

Church’s Company

  • English Lock Musket (607)
  • John Burger’s Doglock Fowler (669)
  • Cookson Doglock (553)
  • WR Doglock (554)
  • James II Musket (774)
  • James II Carbine (676)
  • William II Musket (704)
  • Ang-Meir Flintlock (602)
  • Frank House’s Early Fowler (605)
  • 1660’s to 1670’s French Fusil Ordinaire (640)
  • 1695 le Fusil De Grenadier or Grenadier Musket (794)
  •  1696 French Marine Musket Fusil Ordinaire (680)
  • Early French Naval (595)
  • Early French Musket (837)

Harmon’s Company

  • John Burger’s Doglock Fowler (669)
  • Cookson Doglock (553)
  • WR Doglock (554)
  • William II Musket (704)
  • Queen Anne Musket (638)
  • George I Pre-Land Musket (636)
  • 1728 Dated Early Long Pattern (542 A)
  • 1738 Sea Service Musket (551)
  • Ang-Meir Flintlock (602)
  • Frank House’s Early Fowler (605)
  • 1660’s to 1670’s French Fusil Ordinaire (640)
  • 1695 le Fusil De Grenadier or Grenadier Musket (794)
  • 1696 French Marine Musket Fusil Ordinaire (680)
  • Les Fusil Boucanier (557)
  • Early French Naval (595)
  • Early French Musket (837)
  • 1716 & 1734 Contract Fusil de Chasse (591)
  • 1717 French Infantry Musket (575)
  • 1706 Dutch Musket (552)
  • Dutch Type I Musket (700)

Eames’s Rangers

  • John Burger’s Doglock Fowler (669)
  • Cookson Doglock (553)
  • WR Doglock (554)
  • William II Musket (704)
  • Queen Anne Musket (638)
  • George I Pre-Land Musket (636)
  • 1728 Dated Early Long Pattern (542 A)
  • 1738 Sea Service Musket (551)
  • 1740’s Light Fusil (578)
  • 1742 Dated Long Land Pattern (542B)
  • 1756 Long Land Pattern (549)
  • Marine & Militia Musket (729)
  • Ang-Meir Flintlock (602)
  • Frank House’s Early Fowler (605)
  • 1660’s to 1670’s French Fusil Ordinaire (640)
  • 1695 le Fusil De Grenadier or Grenadier Musket (794)
  • 1696 French Marine Musket Fusil Ordinaire (680)
  • Les Fusil Boucanier (557)
  • Early French Naval (595)
  • Early French Musket (837)
  • 1716 & 1734 Contract Fusil de Chasse (591)
  • 1717 French Infantry Musket (575)
  • 1728 & 1746 French Infantry Musket (576)
  • 1706 Dutch Musket (552)
  • Dutch Type I Musket (700)

Leonard Day—As of this writing (3/2020) I’m not sure about the health of Leonard Day and whether he and/or his son is still producing weapons. Several of us have his English lock guns. They demand a high price on the secondary market. We can try to find out if you are really interested.


Siting Fox Muzzleloadershttp://sittingfoxmuzzleloaders.com/

They have kits and finished guns. Several of their early guns have locks with frizzen bridles. I don’t know if they have optional locks without them

Church’s Company

  • K-15 French Fusil Fin Type C (kit or finished)

Harmon’s Company

  • K-11 Early English Trade Gun (kit or finished)
  • K-15 French Fusil Fin Type C (kit or finished)
  • K-16 French Fusil Ordinaire Type D (kit or finished)
  • K-17 French Tulle “Fusil de Chase” (kit or finished)
  • K-1 Appalachian Barn Gun [does have frizzen bridle] (kit or finished)
  • K-10 Colonial Fowler [does have frizzen bridle] (kit or finished)
  • K-196 Dutch Club Butt Fusil [does have frizzen bridle]

Eames’s Rangers

  • K-11 Early English Trade Gun (kit or finished)
  • K-15 French Fusil Fin Type C (kit or finished)
  • K-16 French Fusil Ordinaire Type D (kit or finished)
  • K-17 French Tulle “Fusil de Chase” (kit or finished)
  • K-1 Appalachian Barn Gun [does have frizzen bridle] (kit or finished)
  • K-10 Colonial Fowler [does have frizzen bridle] (kit or finished)
  • K-196 Dutch Club Butt Fusil [does have frizzen bridle]

Caywood Gunmakershttp://www.caywoodguns.com/home2.html

I’m not sure if anyone has a Caywood. These come as kits in various stages of completion or completely assembled and finished. I did mention custom guns are expensive.

Church’s Company

  • French Type C Fowler
  • French Type D Trade Gun

Harmon’s Company

  • French Type C Fowler
  • French Type D Trade Gun

Eames’s Rangers

  • French Type C Fowler
  • French Type D Trade Gun
  • English Fowler
  • English Game Gun

Kashtuk Bowcrafthttps://www.kashtukbowcraft.com/

Church’s Company

  • Fusil de Chasse

Harmon’s Company

  • Fusil de Chasse
  • American Fowler [does have frizzen bridle]

Eames’s Rangers

  • Fusil de Chasse
  • Early Trade gun
  • American Fowler

Hoffman Reproductionshttps://www.hoffmanreproductions.com/swords-muskets

He makes custom muskets. These would be for Eames’s mostly.


Others—You can surf the Internet for custom gunmakers, however 90% of them make rifles which we can’t use in any unit. Good luck.


Other Reproduction Firearms

These are the much less expensive imported firearms

Loyalist Arms = From Canada, excellent service – https://www.loyalistarms.ca/muskets.html

Piscataqua Company

  • English Lock Musket
  • Early European Matchlock Musket

Church’s Company

  • English Lock Musket
  • Doglock Musket Early Model
  • French Fusil de Chasse
  • 1690’s French Marine Musket
  • Doglock Musket
  • Doglock Musketoon

Harmon’s Company

  • Doglock Musket Early Model
  • French Fusil de Chasse
  • 1690’s French Marine Musket
  • Doglock Musket
  • Doglock Musketoon
  • 1724 Dublin Castle Brown Bess Musket
  • Early British Trade Gun [does have frizzen bridle]
  • 1728 Brown Bess Musket
  • 1728 Brown Bess Musketoon
  • British Sea Service Musket, Early Model

Eames’s Company

  • Doglock Musket Early Model
  • French Fusil de Chasse
  • 1690’s French Marine Musket
  • Doglock Musket
  • Doglock Musketoon
  • 1724 Dublin Castle Brown Bess Musket
  • Early British Trade Gun [does have frizzen bridle]
  • 1728 Brown Bess Musket
  • 1728 Brown Bess Musketoon
  • British Sea Service Musket, Early Model

Middlesex Village Tradinghttp://www.middlesexvillagetrading.com/

Piscataqua Company

  • English Lock Pistol (not as primary weapon)
  • English Lock Fishtail Fowler
  • Matchlock Musket

Church’s Company

  • English Lock Pistol (not as primary weapon)
  • English Lock Fishtail Fowler
  • Early Fusil de Chasse
  • New England Fowler

Harmon’s Company

  • Ranger Brown Bess Musket
  • 1717 French Musket
  • Early Fusil de Chasse
  • New England Fowler

Eames’s Rangers

  • Ranger Brown Bess Musket
  • 1717 French Musket
  • Early Fusil de Chasse
  • New England Fowler

Veteran Armshttp://veteranarms.com/ReproductionMuzzleloadersandFlintlocks/Muskets.html

Piscataqua Company

  • Early Matchlock Arquebus
  • Fishtail Matchlock Musket

Church’s Company

  • Doglock Musket
  • Doglock Carbine
  • Fusil de Chasse

Harmons’ Company

  • Doglock Musket
  • Doglock Carbine
  • Fusil de Chasse
  • 1730 Dublin Castle Bess (get with wooden ramrod)
  • 1740 Long Land (1st Model) Brown Bess

Eames’s Rangers

  • Doglock Musket
  • Doglock Carbine
  • Fusil de Chasse
  • 1730 Dublin Castle Bess (get with wooden ramrod)
  • 1740 Long Land (1st Model) Brown Bess
  • 1748 Artillery Carbine
  • English Trade Gun

Used Firearms

*Bethlehem Trading Posthttp://bethlehemtradingpost.com/

Vinnie Spiotti is a member and his Bethlehem Trading will pop up quite a bit in this list. Vinnie does get and sell used guns on occasion. Just contact him to see if he has any or “knows a guy.”


Track of the Wolfhttps://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Category.aspx/485

Track of the Wolf is a preeminent dealer in all things black powder. They get some very appropriate used guns, but be prepared, they are in business to continue to be in business, they are not a charity giving things away. But I would save the link for all the shooting supplies they have.


Log Cabin Shophttps://www.logcabinshop.com/?route=product/category&path=183_208

They carry used guns, you can stumble on something occasionally


Edged Weapons

Swords, hatchets, and knives. As the Clothing and Gear articles will indicate, swords only really come up in The Piscataqua Company and Church’s Company. The Harmon and Eames portrayals tend to be the old practical hatchets. All of them use knives, with 17th century knives generally being narrower and more pointed. As with firearms, you go from custom to inexpensive import. However, stay away from really cheap swords. They are meant to be wall-hangers.


*Ellis River Knife Workshttp://www.ellisriverknifeworks.com/?fbclid=IwAR1_HjtZo_PeTb5_S1fxv-FNoQb51yHefSdNVgoxH0_pOECV2Mr7VqBL5EU

Jeff Wardwell is a member of the unit and does an amazing job making knives and even short swords. Essentially, you tell him what you want, 17th or 18th century, doesn’t matter, and he will try to make it for you. Frankly, when it comes to a belt knife, just get one from Jeff.


Armour Classhttp://www.swordsmiths.co.uk/Data/Pages/17Century_Main.htm

This company is in Scotland. They make excellent swords for both Piscataqua and Church’s. The rapiers would be for Piscataqua (the Pappenheim version was apparently very common), and hangers for both Piscataqua and Church’s Companies. Stick to the swords on the first two pages of the 17th century section. One note, you will see reference to “sharp” and “reenactment.” The “sharp is a sharpened blade. The “reenactment” has a dull blade and no tip. This is because reenactors in England and Europe tend to whale on each other. I got a dull one and I can hand it to kids so they get a feel for it. However, if you want to feel like you need to hack something or run something through, then get the sharp version.


Reliks.com – https://www.reliks.com/functional-swords/

Don’t know much about this site, but the swords seem to be high quality (and priced as such). In particular look at the following:

Piscataqua Company

  • The Christus Imperat Sword
  • Renaissance Side Sword

Piscataqua or Church

  • Munich Sword

Hoffman Reproductionshttps://www.hoffmanreproductions.com/swords-muskets

He makes custom hunting swords that would work for Church’s.


Wargear – https://wargearshop.com/product/walloons-sword-with-thumb-ring/

Walloon Sword


Veteran Armshttp://veteranarms.com/ReproductionMuzzleloadersandFlintlocks/Swords.html

These are the less expensive imports.

Piscataqua Company

  • 17th century Swept Hilt Rapier
  • Flemish Pappenheim Rapier

Hatchets/Axes

Again, this is between you and your wallet. There are many who make expensive hatchets, but there are also many less expensive versions out there. I will give only a few examples.


Hoffman Reproductionshttps://www.hoffmanreproductions.com/axes-for-sale

Stick with English belt ax. The type with a flat back for hammering are most convenient


Old Dominion Forgehttp://www.olddominionforge.com/axes.html

Another high-end maker. Look at the English Square Poll Ax style.


Townsendhttps://www.townsends.us/collections/axes-tomahawks

Typical low-end hatchets available. Many companies sell these.


Clothing

Note, this area can get a little complex, and I don’t want to flood you with options, but at the same time I want to be thorough. In being thorough I will also include appropriate patterns for those who want to make their own. I get that question all the time, “What pattern should I use?”

Coats, Waistcoats, and Breeches

I’ve combined these two items because many sutlers carry both and many patterns include both.

Ready-made


*Bethlehem Trading Posthttp://bethlehemtradingpost.com/

Piscataqua Company

  • 17th century breeches

Church’s Company

  • 17th century breeches

Harmon’s Company

  • 18th century breeches, either French fly or drop front

Eames’s Rangers

  • 18th century drop front breeches
  • 18th century drop front trousers

Blue Box Sutleryhttps://www.theblueboxsutlery.com/

Owned by a fellow reenactor, Blue Box is particularly handy for 17th century clothing. Generally they are willing to work with you on reasonable variations.

Piscataqua Company

  • #04 1600s Britches (lined or unlined)
  • #05 Early 1600s Scalloped Wings Doublet
  • #11 1600s Common Man’s work/Sailors Coat (this is an earlier design than the one listed under Church’s Company)
  • 17th Century Doublet
  • 16th/17th Century Common Man’s Doublet
  • 1610 Breeches
  • 17th Century Pull Over Cassock
  • 16th/17th work or Sailor’s Pull Over Smock (Short sleeved shown, they would probably do long sleeve as well)

Church’s Company

  • #01 1660-1690s Justacorps
  • #02 1640-1700 Common Man/Sailor Coat
  • #03 1660-1690s Boot Cuff Justacorps
  • #04 1600s Britches
  • #06 Mid to Late 1600s Men’s Work Coat
  • #09 Mid to Late 1600s Waistcoat
  • #13 Early 1700s Sailor’s Jacket
  • #17 1700s Frock Coat

Harmon’s Company

—18th century breeches, either French fly or drop front

  • #14 1750s Frock Coat
  • #15 1750s Waistcoat
  • 1730s Waistcoat
  • #16 1750s Sleeved Waistcoat
  • #18 1740s Frock Coat
  • 1750s Sleeved Waistcoat
  • #25 Mid 18th Century English or French Fly Breeches

Eames’s Rangers

  • #12 1770s Waistcoat
  • #22 18th Century Broad Fall Breeches

C&D Jarnaginhttps://www.jarnaginco.com/index.html

Harmon’s Company and Eames’s Rangers

  • Go to F&I page and “18th Century Civilian Clothing.” You can see pictures of coats and waistcoats. They make French Fly breeches as well. Always use good material. It is a matter of calling to talk about your needs.

Townsendshttps://www.townsends.us/

Townsend is like the 18th century department store and it is well worth poking around. Their videos on foodways are excellent. Check YouTube for those. Clothing definitely has an off-the-rack feel, but you can talk to them. Stay away from the cotton canvas products.

Harmon’s Company

  • Greatcoat
  • 1740 Frock Coat (consider different buttons)
  • Woolen Short Coat
  • Fly Front Breeches, linen
  • 1750s Waistcoat
  • 1750s Sleeved Waistcoat

Eames’s Rangers–

  • 18th Century Linen Coat
  • Greatcoat
  • 1750-1760 Wool Civilian Coat (ask for plain, smaller buttons rather than the large decorative ones listed)
  • Woolen Short Coat
  • Fall Front Breeches, linen
  • Fall Front Trousers, linen
  • 1770s Waistcoat

Patterns and Sewing Goods

Here are suggested patterns for each unit. I am focusing on Reconstructing History patterns because they tend to have the variety and are spot on in most cases. However, there are other historical pattern companies out there and the place to find them all is at Patterns of Time: https://www.patternsoftime.com/index.php. Just go to “All Patterns by Historic Era” and then click on “Medieval-Renaissance-Elizabethan” for Piscataqua Company, or “Colonial-Regency-Romance” for the other units.

The pattern links below take you directly to the Reconstructing History website, but Patterns of Time sell Reconstructing History patterns as well.

Piscataqua Company

Church’s Company

Harmon’s Company

Eames’s Rangers


Buttons and Notions


Shirts, Socks and Neckcloths

As indicated in the Clothing and Gear Section, shirts throughout the period tended to be pretty much the same, cut and sewn from squares and rectangles. The only period that is somewhat different is the early 17th century and The Piscataqua Company. Those shirts either had a very wide collar or a separate collar piece. The shirts also tended to be tied with linen string. Unless noted otherwise, the following tend to sell the standard shirt with the standard collar, however, I’m sure if you asked, they could put on a wider collar for The Piscataqua Company. See Ste

Colors: For the Piscataqua and Church’s Companies stick to white or natural linen. For Harmon’s and Eames color shirts and checked or striped shirts are fine.

As for socks, generally what are sold below are knitted socks. A listed for a pattern to make sewn socks from cloth for the Piscataqua Company is also listed.

Neck cloths should be white or natural linen. Black can be included for Harmon’s and Eames’s Rangers.

*Bethlehem Trading Posthttp://bethlehemtradingpost.com/

  • Linen shirts
  • Heavy over work shirts
  • Linen “cravats”
  • Handknitted wool socks
  • Delp Socks

Delp Stockingshttps://www.delpstockings.com/

  • You can get Delp wool stockings from Bethlehem, but the company sells silk and linen stockings as well, plus has good historical information

Blue Box Sutleryhttps://www.theblueboxsutlery.com/

  • Linen Shirts (lists a 17th shirt with short collar. Probably needs a Falling Band)

Townsendshttps://www.townsends.us/

  • 18th century shirts (stick with linen), both regular and work shirts

Patterns and Sewing Goods

Piscataqua Company

Church’s Company

Other Units


Shoes

We have determined that the tie, low quarter shoes we get from Jarnagin are fine for all four units. This is to save money for members doing multiple units. I’m not sure they really are for early 17th century Piscataqua Company, but from a galloping horse they just look like a low quarter tie shoe. They are expensive but well made. Below are other options if you are only doing one or two units or want specific shoes for specific time periods.

All Four Units

Jarnaginhttp://www.jarnaginco.com/FIcatframe.html

Scroll down to the #6015 1812 Period Low Quarter Military Shoe

Piscataqua Company

The open latchet shoe was common but the most ridiculous idea in the history of shoes. So, let’s cut a big hole in the side of our shoe to let the water and mud in easier! Yeah! That’s a great idea! Closed latchet shoes were also available and from what I can gather were more common among lower classes (the rich were actually showing off their socks with the open latch).

Open Latchet

Loyalist Arms (scroll down to Pikeman Shoes)

From England (watch sizes. English sizes are different from US sizes. I’d contact them before ordering)

Open Latchet

Closed Latchet –

Start Up Boots

Church’s Company

Harmon’s Company and Eames’s Rangers


Hats

Felt hats fall into 17th and 18th century categories for the most part. There is this belief among some progressive reenactors that they only had black felt hats in the 18th century, yet there is evidence of brown (and other colors) hats in the 17th century and 19th century. We don’t really care. If you do, then buy a black hat for an 18th century impression.

Second, 17th century hats had both flat top crowns and round crowns. Round crown hats are easily to get, 17th century flat top felt hats can be pricey as you will see. However, you can get a hat blank (see Townsend), get a ceramic flower pot that is approximately the size of your head, steam the crap out of the hat and force it down over the flower pot, Let it dry in place (use a steam iron to soften more on the pot). At least two of us have done this successfully.

Felt Hats

17th Century

18th Century

Knit Hats

(Monmouth caps, 17th century flat/statute hats)

Knitting Patterns:

Linen workman caps

*Bethlehem Trading Posthttp://bethlehemtradingpost.com/silk-scarves.php

Blue Box Sutleryhttps://www.theblueboxsutlery.com/

Metal Helmets

(Morion, Cabasset, Pikeman Pot—Piscataqua Company only)

Glasses

Townsendhttps://www.townsends.us/collections/eyewear/products/18th-century-reproduction-glasses-gl-791

Gear and Accoutrements

Ammunition Carriers

Piscataqua Company

Bandoliers

Belt Bags for Cartridge Use

(You will need a belt, obviously. See below)

Powder Flask

These are not required, especially if you have a primer on a bandolier. As indicated in the 1620-1640 Weapons and Gear article, the company controlling the New Hampshire did provide some flasks with their military supplies.


Cartridge Box

Cartridge boxes were coming in with the greater use of cartridges. You can’t get any better than one made by our own Bill Payson, who has copied the two main versions brought up from the Phip’s Ship.

Powder Flasks/Primers

Horns were starting to become prominent. This was a transition from the earlier flasks listed for The Piscataqua Company above. Any kind of period primer will work, including powder horns (see next section). You can find leather primers as well

Harmon’s and Eames’s Company

—Essentially when it comes to the provincial look, hunting bags and cartridge boxes were pretty much the same for both units. Best to stick a simple look.


Hunting Pouches

Note that F&I hunting pouches seemed to have been square in shape than round at the bottom. We don’t care, really, but if you do, I just thought I would mention it. Also, remember these were not fancy rifle pouches from Pennsylvania, they were utilitarian. Here are a handful of the myriad of bag makers out there.


Cartridge Boxes


Powder Horns

Powder horns are also extremely personal, and there are so many makers out there. Like many things on this list, you can run from making your own to spending several hundred dollars. First, although this is up to you, it is not necessary to have a powder horn that is heavily decorated with carving. Horn makers usually made those extremely precise map horns for a wealthy clientele. This probably did not include men living on the frontier of New England. Now crudely carved horns, marked by the owners, are more sensible. As for plain horns, the fact is that carved horns were more likely to be retained by families and passed down than plain utility horns, therefore, we have fewer existing examples of the plain horns. Having said that, like hunting pouches, there are a myriad of horn makers out there. You will see plenty of horns at events and can pick one up that you have handled. I would stay away from the cheap, highly polished versions with big brass tacks that are really made for museum gift shops.


Shooting Supplies

Match

I would steer clear of white cotton match. It works, it burns, but they used hemp rope in the 17th century. Not saying you can’t use white cotton, especially if someone hands you a whole length free, but …

The Slow Match Website – I got some hemp match from here, but this website is 10 years old. But it also shows you how to make it. – http://www.metamuseum.com/us/slowmatch/Index.cfm?F=E44 – hemp

Making Match

See The Slow Match Website above. They give instructions. Also, this YouTube. Kind of a dork but a good simple method.

Supplies:

Potassium Nitrate

Amazon.com – https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=potassium%2Bnitrate&tag=aboutcom02thoughtco-20&ascsubtag=3976011%7Cgoogle.com%7C%7C%7C86%7C1%7C

Walmart – https://www.walmart.com/ip/Potassium-Nitrate-Powder-KNO3-1-2-Lb/730344998

Hemp Rope

Hemp Basics – ¼” 50’ foot length (comes in handy for many things besides slow match) – https://www.hempbasics.com/shop/Item/4706

Turkey Foot Trading – http://www.turkeyfootllc.com/Hemproducts.html

*Steve Eames will make hemp match.


Flints

Most guys buy their flints at events, but here are two sources if you want to stock up.

Track of the Wolf – https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/141/1

IMA—Original Flints (yes, they still work) – https://www.ima-usa.com/products/original-18th-century-british-and-french-flintlock-musket-flints-sold-by-the-pound-html


Ball

Track of the Wolf –

Premade Ball – https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/127/1

Lee round ball molds – https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/1202/1

Lyman roundball molds – https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/1203/1

Primitive Bag molds – https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/1195/1


Powder

The unit often makes a large unit order from the Maine Powder House for Tavern Night in February. We save a buck or so off the Maine Powder House price, which is still the best you are going to find. If you can’t wait until February, you can order powder direct from them:

Maine Powder House – https://mainepowderhouse.com/


Authentic Firearm Tools

(wicked cool)

Callahan Bag Molds and Accoutrements – http://www.bagmolds.com/


Belts and Sword Carriages

Piscataqua Company

Waistbelt

Waist Sword Carriage

Baldric—As indicated in the 1620-1640 Weapon and Gear article, probably should steer clear, but they were not unknown, just apparently rare.

Church’s Company

Waistbelt

Waist Sword Carriage

Baldric

Harmon’s and Eames’s Company

Waistbelts

Belt Bags

Waistbelt carriages

As the Clothing and Gear article indicates, you can shove a hatchet just about anywhaere (a few hurt if you do), so you don’t need a carriage necessarily, but if you do:

Do it yourself

Buckles for those who want to make your own. You find leather, although there always Tandy Leather


Knapsacks and Snapsacks

Piscataqua Company and Church’s Company

Snapsacks

Harmon’s Company and Eames’s Rangers

Snapsacks are okay for Harmon’s Company, see above

Knapsack


Canteens

Piscataqua Company and Church’s Company

Leather Costrels

Harmon’s Company and Eames’s Rangers


Blankets

Frankly, you are looking for a wool blanket (see Clothing and Gear articles for descriptions).


Camping

Eating and Drinking

Piscataqua Company and Church’s Company

Harmon’s Company and Eames’s Rangers

Most guys buy their eating stuff for the 18th century units at events You need a cup or mug, spoon (pewter or horn), knife and fork, plate and/or bowl. Here are a couple sites if you want to order. They are all over the place unlike 17th century eating tools. See the various shopping department stores below.


Cooking

Again, you can find what you need at events. Here are a few places to order from.


Shelter

As indicated in the Clothing and Gear articles, we tend to use primitive shelters Tentsmiths is the best for oilskin tarp, your choice on size but 8’x8’ is probably the best, followed by 9’x9’, although some get by with 7’x7’. If you have the ability, Tentsmiths also sells the oilskin by the yard and you can make your own custom size.


Sites to Rummage Around in for Shopaholics

These are the department stores of reenacting.


Reading Material

Obscenely expensive book that does provide background to methodology for Church’s, Harmon’s and even Eames’s Company.

Rustic Warriors: Warfare and Provincial Solders on the New England Frontier, 1689-1748https://www.amazon.com/Rustic-Warriors-Provincial-Frontier-1689-1748/dp/0814722709/ref=sr_1_1?crid=I9YNQ3X7N79K&dchild=1&keywords=rustic+warriors&qid=1585582983&sprefix=Rustic+Warri%2Caps%2C166&sr=8-1

Other Recommended Books

Benjamin Church’s Diary, or The History of Philip’s war, Commonly Called the Great Indian war, of 1675 and 1676. Also, of the French and Indian Wars at the Eastward, in 1689, 1690, 1692, 1696, and 1704 – Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/History-Philips-Commonly-Called-Eastward/dp/1376143267/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1PDLEHW6WG8O&dchild=1&keywords=benjamin+church&qid=1586978302&s=books&sprefix=Benjamin+Church%2Caps%2C160&sr=1-5

Charles E Clark, The Eastern Frontier: The Settlement of Northern New England, 1610-1673 – Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Eastern-Frontier-Settlement-Northern-1610-1763/dp/0874512522/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=The+Eastern+Frontier&qid=1586978624&s=books&sr=1-2

Kyle F. Zelner, A Rabble in Arms: Massachusetts Towns and Militiamen during King Philip’s War (Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Rabble-Arms-Massachusetts-Militiamen-Philips/dp/0814797342/ref=sr_1_50?dchild=1&keywords=King+Philip%27s+War&qid=1586978851&s=books&sr=1-50

Robert E. Cray, Lovewell’s Fight: War, Death and Memory in Borderland New England – Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Lovewells-Fight-Memory-Borderland-England/dp/1625341075/ref=sr_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=John+Lovewell&qid=1586979030&s=books&sr=1-11

John Grenier, The First Way of War: American War Making on the Frontier, 1607-1814 – Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/First-Way-War-American-1607-1814/dp/0521732638/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=The+First+Way+of+War&qid=1586979506&s=books&sr=1-1